Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body (英語) ペーパーバック – 2015/12/18
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Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body goes a step beyond traditional historical costuming texts by not only providing you with historical pattern diagrams and information, but by showing you how to adapt these patterns to the contemporary body shape. Using her original pattern-drafting system, author Mandy Barrington will show you how to draft a historical pattern for a modern body shape, while still retaining an accurate historical silhouette.
Each pattern has been generated from an original stay, corset, or pattern taken from a historical garment. The instructions to follow these new patterns are designed to accommodate any size of female figure, allowing you to avoid extremely difficult, time consuming, and inaccurate historical pattern re-sizing Requiring only basic prior knowledge of pattern drafting, all calculations have been worked out for the costume maker and are provided in simple tables accompanied by easy-to-read, step-by-step diagrams that clearly show how the historical pattern is plotted onto the female basic block, coupled with photographs of the constructed stays and corsets.
Mandy Barrington is a Senior Lecturer in Costume at the Arts University Bournemouth with a first class honours degree in Costume design and a Masters in Costume. Mandy has worked professionally making costumes for shows such as My Fair Lady at the National Theatre, London, the hit West End show Wicked, and Sleeping Beauty at The Royal Opera House.
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This definitely has more detailed construction and drafting information but for the price, buy Salen's book and Waisted Efforts - combined, they provide the same information and if you already own them, there's nothing new here for the serious corsetmaker. If you can only buy one of the three though, get this one. I haven't tried any of the drafting instructions yet, but they look to be easy to follow and well-written. This is a nice large overview of corsetry styles, with examples of each period of historical fashion from 18th century stays to early 20th century waist cinchers.
Overall: wide breadth of knowledge but doesn't add anything new to the field. Most useful for those who need to make corsets from a wide variety of periods without a lot of experience or professional training in drafting. I will definitely be suggesting this to beginning corsetry students and advising more advanced ones to steer clear.
However, be aware that the patterns are ... oddly chosen. Important periods for which period costumes are often made seem to be skipped entirely. There is no set of stays appropriate to the bulk of the 1860s (the example given is an 1850's silhouette stay from 1860), nor is there anything for the 1840s.. Also, the book would have benefited from more information on fitting after flat patterning.
Finally I think the poorly executed samples, which make up the bulk of the photo illustrations, really do a disservice to the good information in this book. Many use insufficient boning, especially the sample given for the "fully boned stay," which ended up being less than half boned. Steels are shown twisting and nearly poking through the cloth, so spirals ought to have been used. The cloth used is clearly the wrong quality, as the flat white steels can be seen shining through it. Hopefully those who buy this book will not endeavor to make their pieces of the same type of cloth. Some are poorly fitted to the model, or shown without the bones in tabs that should be boned according to the diagrams. The samples made with synthetic whalebone or other stiffenings are significantly better, but they are less than half of those shown.
The short 1790s stay should not go to the natural waist of the model all the way around. It should fit more like a longline bra, halfway down the ribcage in back. If worn with a full costume, and skirts weighing on it, this cut would cause an actress considerable discomfort as that had edge cuts into her hips and waistline. I hope it was only made for this book project, and not for use in the theatre.
I also took off points because I believe a section on sewing these drafting's should have been included, since this book is for a specialty- I think it should have been covered in depth. I liked a decent amount of the corsets and stays presented in this book-keep in mind there is some overlap with corsets from the Jill salen book. I do not mind this as Jill's book is not specifically about pattern drafting-I think its fair to say you can purchase both and get good use from both. I prefer this book over Jill's and think it would be far easier to pattern draft these than it would be to take an existing pattern and keep scaling till it is a workable size pattern.
so is it worth it? for me yes , but the book could use some tweaking.