Ducasse Flavors of France (英語) ハードカバー – スペシャル・エディション, 2006/9/21
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In this, his first American cookbook, M. Ducasse shares the principles and techniques of his uniquely elemental cuisine. At its core are clarity of taste, precision in execution, and respect for the food itself, which to Ducasse means retaining its essential flavor. That respect for true taste results in a multitude of simple but striking techniques. Ducasse uses as much of each ingredient as he can—the skins, the shells, the baking juices, the pan drippings, the heads, the cooking broth, all the by-products of the process—in order to capture the truest taste. He incorporates different preparations of the same ingredient into a given dish, each revealing an individual aspect of its flavor—sliced raw artichokes, braised whole artichokes, and paper-thin slices of fried artichoke, for example, might be featured together. The brilliance of his food—apparent in recipes made with no more than two ingredients enhanced by a simple aromatic element, with seasoning reduced to a few grains of salt—explains why he is "the country's star chef" (Wine Spectator) and "the Escoffier of our time" (Le Point).
Ducasse Flavors of France documents, in more than one hundred lavishly photographed recipes, the influences—Mediterranean, Provençal, and classical French—that permeate this extaordinary cuisine. Many of the recipes are simple, others complex, but all can be perfectly accomplished with a little time and patience.With its "alluringly simple dishes, like buttery fork-mashed potatoes, peppered slices of sauteed pumpkin, swordfish with citrus, exquisite chocolate tartlets, and a homey pear and honey cake made with big chunks of pear" (The New York Times), this is the most accessible Ducasse cookbook published. Yet there are still recipes to challenge ambitious cooks and great tips that will make all cooks better in the kitchen.
"Alluringly simple dishes, like buttery fork-mashed potatoes, peppered slices of saut ed pumpkin, and a homey pear and honey cake made with big chunks of pear." --The New York Times商品の説明をすべて表示する
Beautifully photographed, excellent page and binding quality, useful glossary (which includes substitutions for things like the seafood and mushrooms) and a section on basics like stocks, jus, etc. Techniques are very useful even without his exact ingredient list- just cook with what you have fresh and with good ingredients you have access to and you won't go wrong. Add a teaspoon of Grand Marnier to his french bread soaking mixture for a delicious twist, for example. Very good selection of recipes, and recipe quality and accuracy is great.
Some recipes can be costly to put together, and others will require substitution which may be a drawback to cookbook purists. If you don't like sweetbreads, foie gras, etc., a number of recipes also feature those, so be aware. You'll want to be friends with a good butcher/fish monger to get the most out of the book, but if you're reading a book like this, you already know that. Also, he features some "menu porn" which describes and pictures a tasty looking dish with no actual recipe measurements to recreate it, which was personally frustrating because the sour cherry clafloutis looked amazing. Considering the high level the rest of the book achieves, those recipes could've still added something had they been included.
Overall, I rated the book 5 stars because I've found it accomplishes what every cookbook of it's kind sets out to do; it makes itself as at home in the kitchen, wide open, waiting for the home chef to double check recipe steps, as it does on the coffee table to look good. I bought a used copy for $12, and I still would've been satisfied had I sprung for the new version. Regardless of which version you get, if you're a fan of Ducasse or good cooking, I genuinely think you'll enjoy it, too.
The photography is absolutely stunning. If you are familiar with Roger Verge's "Entertaining in the New French Style", the photographer is the same.
Recipes I have tried with success:
Dark Chocolate Tart with Rich Pastry Dough Crust
Pear Tart: Raw and Caramelized
Jasmine Pots de Creme
-Many of the recipes require ingredients unavailable in this country.
-Many times, the pictures do not quite match up with the recipes, which is very frustrating when looking for visual clues.
Overall, this book is for serious chefs or those who want to look like serious chefs by putting this book on their coffee table. Many of the recipes are simple: the filling for the chocolate tart only contains 4 ingredients, but this makes them all the more challenging: there is nothing easy about the recipes.