Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, And Curing (英語) ハードカバー – 2005/11
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CHARCUTERIE-a culinary specialty that originally referred to the creation of pork products such as salami, sausages, and prosciutto-is true food craftsmanship, the art of turning preserved food into items of beauty and taste. Today the term encompasses a vast range of preparations, most of which involve salting, cooking, smoking, and drying. In addition to providing classic recipes for sausages, terrines, and pates, Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn expand the definition to include anything preserved or prepared ahead such as Mediterranean olive and vegetable rillettes, duck confit, and pickles and sauerkraut. Ruhlman, coauthor of The French Laundry Cookbook, and Polcyn, an expert charcuterie instructor at Schoolcraft College in Livonia, Michigan, present 125 recipes that are both intriguing to professionals and accessible to home cooks, including salted, airdried ham; Maryland crab, scallop, and saffron terrine; Da Bomb breakfast sausage; mortadella and soppressata; and even spicy smoked almonds.
Michael Ruhlman is the author of six books, including The Soul of a Chef and The Making of a Chef. Brian Polcyn is chef/owner of Five Lakes Grill in Michigan, USA.
But- I've made a bunch of things, and they have been great!
The licorice-spices "gravlax" might be the show-stopper. It is utterly gorgeous, and I've made it several times; it may be the best salmon appetizer I've ever had.
The corned beef and pastrami are excellent. I've been making my own corned beef for St. Pat's Day for years; it's relatively easy to add a hot-smoke and make it into pastrami.
The pancetta is also excellent, though a bit more risky-seeming! And the bacon is gorgeous.
None of these- except maybe the gravlax- is exactly easy or simple... but the results are worth it.
There's also good info on confit (and one of these days I WILL make duck proscuitto!), and lots on sausages- which I mostly have not done.
Not much on cold smoking, especially in a home environment, though we've experimented and have had some good results without a lot of specialized equipment.
I really recommend this book.
The basics are well documented and the recipes (that I have tried) have all come out very well. My personal favorites are the smoked andullle and taso ham. He starts easy and basic, then takes you further down the path until you're amazing your friends and family with meat care packages the likes of which they've never seen.
As for the bacon, let me say that I now only make bacon that I can't otherwise buy. Trying to make a maple or pepper bacon at home, when you can buy a good (perhaps not the best) quality bacon at Costco or your local grocery store for under $5/lb is not worth it in my book. While not difficult, it just takes a long time. On the other hand, I used his technique and simple instructions to make an excellent savory bacon that is unlike anything else I've had. Think of it like brewing beer... you probably shouldn't get into it to save money or to duplicate a widely available commercial beer, but if you want to give your own twist to a style or to be able to proudly say "I made this", then it's worth your time and effort.
The "over-complication" isn't necessary a bad thing, as it demonstrates the "proper" (read: the way that they were trained) method to prepare the foods. However, if someone is just starting out in charcuterie, they may find some of the recipes and techniques a bit daunting. Regardless, I would recommend that anyone who wants to become a home charcutier should have this book at their disposal.
I first came across Ruhlman when I was trolling the Internet in search of instructions on how to make homemade bacon. The information on his website was informative, easy to follow and resulted in the best bacon I've ever had. Period. I wanted to know more about how to prepare other meats such as corned beef, ham, sausages, etc. I figured that if his book even had one or two other recipes I could use, it would be worth it. Well, I've had the book for about three weeks now and I've already made bacon twice, a brown sugar glazed ham, Canadian bacon and I'm about to try a pastrami. I've become good friends with the butcher at my local market and I haven't even reached the part of the book that covers sausages!
The recipes are not particularly challenging but many do take time. For example, bacon takes about a week but it is almost magic how a pork belly is transformed into apple wood smoked, maple cured bacon that is so much better than the stuff you find in the supermarket.
I am enjoying this book immensely and I think you will too.
Items that need improvement are:
There is cross-referencing from recipes to technique sections, where the technique is at odds with the specifics of the recipe.
Also, the index is absolutely useless in the Kindle book - headings and subsections are indistinguishable due to lack of indentation, and there is no hyperlinking. Obviously page number references are pointless. This is a serious shortcoming with the Kindle edition, and I sincerely hope it can be rectified in future Kindle editions of this otherwise excellent book.