Blood Sweat And Tears: Or How I Stopped Worrying And Learned to Love Fashion (英語) ハードカバー – 2005/11/30
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(excerpted from catalog copy) ?No book is about one thing.? By Bruce Weber At first I thought strictly about a book of photographs on fashion. As I worked on it, I thought more and more about something my friend the late, great fashion designer Gianni Versace once said, in giving me advice before an assignment, ?Call me des mode, but give me beauty.? And with these inspired words I wanted to make a record of how I journeyed out into the world and recorded what most people call fashion. These photographs were not just about the shape of clothes, but also how one sees fashion in nature, architecture, and in the human spirit. When I began photographing, I was at Life Magazine borrowing some equipment. I ran into a bunch of other photographers in the camera department. One photographer asked, ?what kind of photos are you doing for the magazine?? I replied, ?I am going to do some pictures of girls in bathing suits.? They all burst out laughing at me, and said, ?that doesn?t sound too serious..."
Bruce Weber, born in rural Greensburg, Pennsylvania in 1946, became the preeminent photographer of the fashion industry in the 1980s and continues to be one of the worlds most popular and influential photographers. Working for Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld Gianni Versace, Ralph Lauren and more recently, Abercrombie & Fitch Weber pioneered a nostalgic, boy-next-door style that redefined the industry. He is widely considered to have introduced a new level of artistry to commercial photography.
More than 15 books of Webers work have been published. His photographs are in the permanent collections of Londons Victoria and Albert Museum and the Museum of Modern Art in Paris. Weber has exhibited at venues including the 1987 Whitney Biennial in New York City, Musee de lElysee in Lausanne, Switzerland, Palazzo Fortuny in Venice, the Florence Biennale, the National Portrait Gallery in London, the Parco Exposure Gallery in Tokyo, Fahey/Klein in Los Angeles, Galeria Corso Como in Milan, and the Russell Senate Building in Washington, DC.
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Bruce Weber's fashion photography career is perhaps one of the most significant and prolific in the history of the genre. His unique vision, style, casting, vitality, whimsy and humor have provided a refreshing interpretation of fashion and commercial photography for a quarter century. "Blood, Sweat and Tears" offers a wonderful sampling of many of his memorable stories and iconographic images. One could argue that almost everything Weber has shot including male nudes, dogs, still life, portraits... are all fashion imagery. Weber himself has been an enormously influential architect of our perception of photography in the market place and brought what might have seemed distant and iconographic imagery (or art) into the mainstream. The Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren campaigns of the 80's and 90's were seminal and provided defining imagery for the era. The Abercrombie & Fitch campaigns are perhaps the natural evolution both photographically and culturally - do you see any similarities between the catalogs and shots/antics/sexuality of Paris Hilton and Lindsey Lohan?
I know I'm not alone in being bemused by critics that whine about this book being too focused on Weber's fashion career (and not enough male nudes) when the book is specifically titled as such! To some of Weber's fans, iconic male (and female) nudes are his most important work - and he has served them well with numerous beautiful books and exhibitions. But will he be best remembered as a force in art photography with a classical sensibility to the human form - at the end of the C20th!? Or will his legacy will be as one of the greatest commercial fashion photographer in history?