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『The Bread Bible』は、ローズ・レヴィ・ベランバウムのレシピ本の特徴でもある、誰にでもできる詳細なレシピを150種類掲載。ベーキングの化学に関する著者の豊富な知識とレシピの取っつきやすさ、それに著者の作り出す品々のセンスの良さが魅力の本書は、パン作りの素人にとってもプロにとっても貴重な1冊。
紹介するレシピは、酵母を使ったパン、クイックブレッド、フラットブレッド、ブリオッシュをはじめ多岐にわたり、チャバタ、セモリナ、ライ、サワードウなどのパンから、ベーグル、ビスケット、クランペット、ピザ生地に至るまで、あらゆるベーキングベースを網羅。
「Understanding(理解)」と「Pointers for Success(成功のヒント)」のセクションで、各レシピで用いるテクニックや材料の大切さをシンプルな読みやすい言葉で説明し、粉の種類、道具、その他の重要事項に関する詳細なセクションで、ベーキング術を徹底的に指導。何度作っても完璧にうまくいく確かなレシピを提供するために、かさ(容積)と重さの両方がわかる便利な材料表を採用。線画225点、カラーイラスト32ページ。
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Since we're talking about bibles here, clearly Berenbaum finds that God is in the details. She gives clear, concise explanations of the "whys" of baking without ever getting tedious. I have been baking regularly for nearly thirty years, and yet in my first read-through of The Bread Bible, I learned at least a dozen facts that I hadn't previously known, and yet made perfect sense. For example, the inclusion of Wondra bleached, granulated flour (not a typical staple among serious bakers) in her Butter Popovers eliminate the resting period that the batter typically must undergo before baking.
Her books also inspire: A round, Gruyere-spiked cheese bread baked in a souffle dish--which Berenbaum whimsically names, "The Stud Muffin"--will send me out today on a quick trip for a couple of necessary, missing ingredients.
Berenbaum's recipes run the gamut from simple "quick" breads to more time-consuming (but hardly more difficult) artisanal loaves. She also provides sources for ingredients and equipment. This tome, with its gorgeous photographs and numerous line drawings, might intimidate some fledgling bakers, but don't let it! If it does, I suggest The King Arthur Flour's Baker's Companion. However, true breadheads are justified in wanting both.
Rose Levy Berenbaum's passion both for detail and for routinely spectacular results reminds me of Maida Heatter, whose equally comprehensive and delightful baking books inspired beginning bakers like me more than twenty years ago. Heatter's books have withstood the test of time. I'm sure Berenbaum's Bread Bible will become as annotated and batter-spattered as Heatter's books are in my kitchen. There's no higher praise than that!
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