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Once luxury was available only to the rarefied and aristocratic world of old money and royalty. It offered a history of tradition, superior quality, and a pampered buying experience. Today, however, luxury is simply a product packaged and sold by multibillion-dollar global corporations focused on growth, visibility, brand awareness, advertising, and, above all, profits. Award-winning journalist Dana Thomas digs deep into the dark side of the luxury industry to uncover all the secrets that Prada, Gucci, and Burberry don?t want us to know. Deluxe is an uncompromising look behind the glossy façade that will enthrall anyone interested in fashion, finance, or culture.
From Publishers Weekly
Newsweek reporter Thomas skillfully narrates European fashion houses' evolution from exclusive ateliers to marketing juggernauts. Telling the story through characters like the French mogul Bernard Arnault, she details how the perfection of old-time manufacturing, still seen in Hermès handbags, has bowed to sweatshops and wild profits on mediocre merchandise. After a brisk history of luxury, Thomas shows why handbags and perfume are as susceptible to globalization and corporate greed as less rarefied industries. She follows the overarching story, parts of which are familiar, from boardrooms to street markets that unload millions in counterfeit goods, dropping irresistible details like a Japanese monk obsessed with Comme des Garçons. But she's no killjoy. If anything, she's fond of the aristocratic past, snarks at "behemoths that churn out perfume like Kraft makes cheese" and is too credulous of fashionistas' towering egos. Despite her grasp of business machinations, her argument that conglomerates have stolen luxury's soul doesn't entirely wash. As her tales of quotidian vs. ultra luxury make clear, the rich and chic can still distinguish themselves, even when Las Vegas hosts the world's ritziest brands. Thomas might have delved deeper into why fashion labels inspire such mania, beyond "selling dreams," but her curiosity is contagious. (Aug.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. --このテキストは、絶版本またはこのタイトルには設定されていない版型に関連付けられています。
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. --このテキストは、絶版本またはこのタイトルには設定されていない版型に関連付けられています。
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5 人中、4人の方が、｢このレビューが参考になった｣と投票しています。
形式:ハードカバー
街でヴィトンのバッグを持つ人を見ない日はない。日本経済はバブル崩壊後の不況から脱し切れていない感があるが、ブランド品を身につけている女性の数は確実に増えているのではないだろうか。
この本が他のブランドを扱った書籍と一線を画しているのは、そのタイトルが示すとおり単なる「ラグジュアリーブランドに学ぶブランド構築」本ではない点だろう。ブランドのカスタマーがアッパークラスからミドルクラスにまで広がることでラグジュアリーが消費される対象となっていく過程を様々な事例、現象を通して読者に見せてくれる。この本を読み進む中で、ラグジュアリーブランドのビジネスが輝やいているというよりはギラギラしているように感じていた理由についてようやく得心した。Vogueの伝説的な編集長だったD.Vreelandと、彼女を見つけ出したHarper's BazaarのC.Snowのバッグに関するやりとりのシーンは本書の中ではささやかであったが時代の幕開けを感じさせ象徴的で私には印象深かった。なぜ、バッグにここまでクレージーになるのか。理由は本書を読んでほしい。
ところで、私はブラジルには並々ならぬ愛情と興味を長いこともっていたがブラジルに存在する超高級デパートについては知らなかった。これぞまさに究極の接客だと感心すると同時に、ブラジルという国に住む人々の特性なしにはありえなかっただろうとも思う。
最後に。この本は文学ではないので英語そのものは複雑ではない。高校英語の基礎さえあれば、内容の面白さに牽引されてどんどん読めることを請合う。
この本が他のブランドを扱った書籍と一線を画しているのは、そのタイトルが示すとおり単なる「ラグジュアリーブランドに学ぶブランド構築」本ではない点だろう。ブランドのカスタマーがアッパークラスからミドルクラスにまで広がることでラグジュアリーが消費される対象となっていく過程を様々な事例、現象を通して読者に見せてくれる。この本を読み進む中で、ラグジュアリーブランドのビジネスが輝やいているというよりはギラギラしているように感じていた理由についてようやく得心した。Vogueの伝説的な編集長だったD.Vreelandと、彼女を見つけ出したHarper's BazaarのC.Snowのバッグに関するやりとりのシーンは本書の中ではささやかであったが時代の幕開けを感じさせ象徴的で私には印象深かった。なぜ、バッグにここまでクレージーになるのか。理由は本書を読んでほしい。
ところで、私はブラジルには並々ならぬ愛情と興味を長いこともっていたがブラジルに存在する超高級デパートについては知らなかった。これぞまさに究極の接客だと感心すると同時に、ブラジルという国に住む人々の特性なしにはありえなかっただろうとも思う。
最後に。この本は文学ではないので英語そのものは複雑ではない。高校英語の基礎さえあれば、内容の面白さに牽引されてどんどん読めることを請合う。
形式:ペーパーバック|Amazonが確認した購入
欧米の有名ハイファッションブランドが世界のマスマーケットに貪欲に浸透する中で、のれんや品質より売上げ成長と利益率を最優先していく、という話。
強いブランドがターゲットを広げすぎて希薄化したり、売上げ優先で品質劣化を起こすのは珍しい話ではないが、この本の取材の幅広さと深さのお陰で、とてもスリリングなノンフィクションに出会った満足感がある。こうした質の高いノンフィクションは、最近の日本ではなかなか無いなあ･･･。
印象に残ったのは、やはり時流を得て中国の存在感。作り手としても、買い手としてもこれからのハイファッションは中国抜きに語れなくなるのだと、改めて実感。
一方で、こうしたハイファッションの大衆化に先鞭をつけた日本人の描き方が少し平板な気がする。都築響一にまで取材してるのは驚いたけど、「欧米人には理解できない『ブランド狂信者たち』」みたいな印象だけが強かった。ま、実際そういう人が世界で始めて集団発生したのが日本なんだろうが。
強いブランドがターゲットを広げすぎて希薄化したり、売上げ優先で品質劣化を起こすのは珍しい話ではないが、この本の取材の幅広さと深さのお陰で、とてもスリリングなノンフィクションに出会った満足感がある。こうした質の高いノンフィクションは、最近の日本ではなかなか無いなあ･･･。
印象に残ったのは、やはり時流を得て中国の存在感。作り手としても、買い手としてもこれからのハイファッションは中国抜きに語れなくなるのだと、改めて実感。
一方で、こうしたハイファッションの大衆化に先鞭をつけた日本人の描き方が少し平板な気がする。都築響一にまで取材してるのは驚いたけど、「欧米人には理解できない『ブランド狂信者たち』」みたいな印象だけが強かった。ま、実際そういう人が世界で始めて集団発生したのが日本なんだろうが。
Amazon.com で最も参考になったカスタマーレビュー (beta)
Amazon.com:
73件のカスタマーレビュー
100 人中、94人の方が、｢このレビューが参考になった｣と投票しています。
Methodically researched/ Beautifully written
2007/8/25
形式:ハードカバー
Full Disclosure: I write about fashion, entertainment and celebrities for a living and have known Dana Thomas for a decade or more. I knew she was working on a book about luxury (yawn) and for the past three years, she was always exhausted, trotting off to China, Milan, Grasse or Lake Como, sometimes popping into my hood in Hollywood, constantly doing research for the book.
But frankly, I'm not a big designer brand buyer and would sooner plunk $400 on a Pottery Barn couch than a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes. So I never imagined how engrossed i would be by this book. In fact, I was shocked.
Dana makes this elitist world come alive by putting luxury in a historical context (Caesar wore only silk togas and the Senate was POed at the expense!) and taking the reader with her on a personal journey behind the scenes and around the world, to find out the sad truth about the decline of the luxury goods industry.
It's utterly fascinating and engrossing. And it's funny! Dana has a wicked snse of humor and pulls no punches in describing the decadent denizens of the "Deluxe" world. Even if you know nothing about fashion, couldn't tell a Gucci bag from a Prada purse, and don't own a single designer knockoff product, this book will fascinate, educate and entertain. Plus any book that can make me put down the last Harry Potter - in the middle! - has to be some kind of good read.
But frankly, I'm not a big designer brand buyer and would sooner plunk $400 on a Pottery Barn couch than a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes. So I never imagined how engrossed i would be by this book. In fact, I was shocked.
Dana makes this elitist world come alive by putting luxury in a historical context (Caesar wore only silk togas and the Senate was POed at the expense!) and taking the reader with her on a personal journey behind the scenes and around the world, to find out the sad truth about the decline of the luxury goods industry.
It's utterly fascinating and engrossing. And it's funny! Dana has a wicked snse of humor and pulls no punches in describing the decadent denizens of the "Deluxe" world. Even if you know nothing about fashion, couldn't tell a Gucci bag from a Prada purse, and don't own a single designer knockoff product, this book will fascinate, educate and entertain. Plus any book that can make me put down the last Harry Potter - in the middle! - has to be some kind of good read.
46 人中、45人の方が、｢このレビューが参考になった｣と投票しています。
If anyone finds out about me...
2007/9/6
形式:ハードカバー|Amazonが確認した購入
at corporate I would get a little slap on the wrist for writing this review since I work for one the brands heavily mentioned in this wonderful book.
I entered the world of luxury goods last year for an Italian brand that even it's "epicenter" store is elusive without the name of the store on Rodeo Drive. What Dana Thomas has written about the luxury brands is eye opening and condemning. From the factories in China, Santee Alley in the Downtown Los Angeles and the country side of France, you get the insiders view on how indeed luxury lost its luster. Once considered lavish and extravagant, we now see what luxury brands have done to diminish the quality and service of these high end stores and at great cost. No one walks into Gucci and buys a $2000 handbag expecting it to be made by an under paid teenager in China only to have the tag changed once it is in the companies possession to "made in Italy" for adding a handle. Small couture brands exist that retain a sense of dignity by continuing the art of exclusivity, style and hand made products that are still created and made where the tag states they're from. Even Hermes, a brand that continues to grow steadily, has retained its heritage and luxe by hand making made to order handbags and saddles.
Aside from the investigative interviews and reports on luxury's current state, you also get history lessons on the birth of luxury from Alexander the Great's wardrobe, how Chanel No 5 came to be and the creation of the "Birkin" bag for Jane Birkin by Hermes. Witty, insightful and damning, you can't help but feel drawn into this book hoping that it never ends. But all good things come to an end and what I was left with was a sense of doubt and a bit of anger. As I stand in floor full of runway dresses, shoes and bags I wonder how much are these really worth? When a client complains in the future about her bag falling apart in a few days and asks, "What are your bags made in China?" in the back of my mind I will think yes it indeed could have been made in China.
I entered the world of luxury goods last year for an Italian brand that even it's "epicenter" store is elusive without the name of the store on Rodeo Drive. What Dana Thomas has written about the luxury brands is eye opening and condemning. From the factories in China, Santee Alley in the Downtown Los Angeles and the country side of France, you get the insiders view on how indeed luxury lost its luster. Once considered lavish and extravagant, we now see what luxury brands have done to diminish the quality and service of these high end stores and at great cost. No one walks into Gucci and buys a $2000 handbag expecting it to be made by an under paid teenager in China only to have the tag changed once it is in the companies possession to "made in Italy" for adding a handle. Small couture brands exist that retain a sense of dignity by continuing the art of exclusivity, style and hand made products that are still created and made where the tag states they're from. Even Hermes, a brand that continues to grow steadily, has retained its heritage and luxe by hand making made to order handbags and saddles.
Aside from the investigative interviews and reports on luxury's current state, you also get history lessons on the birth of luxury from Alexander the Great's wardrobe, how Chanel No 5 came to be and the creation of the "Birkin" bag for Jane Birkin by Hermes. Witty, insightful and damning, you can't help but feel drawn into this book hoping that it never ends. But all good things come to an end and what I was left with was a sense of doubt and a bit of anger. As I stand in floor full of runway dresses, shoes and bags I wonder how much are these really worth? When a client complains in the future about her bag falling apart in a few days and asks, "What are your bags made in China?" in the back of my mind I will think yes it indeed could have been made in China.
68 人中、58人の方が、｢このレビューが参考になった｣と投票しています。
LOVED THIS BOOK!
2007/8/23
形式:ハードカバー
I heard Dana at a reading last night in NYC and HAD to buy her book. I then stayed up until 2:00am reading it... and finished it this afternoon. A true fashion insider (Paris correspondent for Newsweek), Dana has the job I think we all wish we had -- covering the couture shows, getting the "real" inside scoop on what goes on behind the fashion curtain (as it were). The stories are here, and they are all real, since Dana knows all the players -- LVMH, Marc Jacobs, Galliano, Prada...
She tells us the stories behind all the luxury items we covet -- Chanel No. 5 perfume, that Prada bag, that Dior evening dress. And most importantly, WHY we covet them. You might never walk down 57th Street, or Rodeo Drive, or Bond Street, and see the stores quite the same way.
Impeccably researched, highly informative, fast paced -- this is on my gift list for all my pals this year. A great read...
She tells us the stories behind all the luxury items we covet -- Chanel No. 5 perfume, that Prada bag, that Dior evening dress. And most importantly, WHY we covet them. You might never walk down 57th Street, or Rodeo Drive, or Bond Street, and see the stores quite the same way.
Impeccably researched, highly informative, fast paced -- this is on my gift list for all my pals this year. A great read...
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